Austria - Japonia Today

The journey took forty days. He crossed the Alps, the Danube plains, the Urals, the frozen Baikal, and at last the yellow Sea of Japan. When he stepped onto the platform at Shimbashi Station, Tokyo swallowed him whole—not with noise, but with a kind of courteous absence of echo. The air smelled of cedar and charcoal. He did not understand a single word anyone said.

One rainy November night, after three cups of sake, Felix pulled out his violin—a modest instrument, but the only thing he had left from his dead wife’s dowry. O-Kuni listened to him play the Adagio of the “Death and the Maiden” quartet, transposed for solo. When he finished, she said something in Japanese. Kenji translated softly: “She says that your music walks on crutches, but it is trying to dance.”

Yuki played the piece that night in her dormitory. She did not have a shamisen, but she had a piano and an old koto borrowed from the music library. She played the left hand as the waltz, the right hand as the honkyoku . When she reached the empty space where the second movement should have been, she stopped. Austria - Japonia

He left the score on the shamisen’s stand. The next morning, he took the train to Yokohama, then a ship to Marseille, then a rattling military train to Vienna. He arrived in December 1914. By 1918, he had lost two fingers on his left hand to a grenade fragment near the Isonzo River. He never played the violin again.

The nurse had no idea what he meant. Seventy-two years later, in Kyoto, a young conservatory student named Yuki Tanaka was cleaning out her late grandmother’s closet. Her grandmother had been blind. She had died at ninety-three, having outlived two husbands and seven cats. Among her kimonos and prayer beads, Yuki found a rolled bundle of handmade paper. Inside was a single sheet of manuscript—fragile as a dragonfly wing—with notation in two different hands. The top half was written in European style: quarter notes, dynamic marks in Italian. The bottom half was tablature for shamisen, with Japanese annotations. The journey took forty days

His assigned interpreter was a young man named Kenji Tanaka, a graduate of Keio University who had never left Japan but spoke German like a Viennese civil servant. “Professor Adler,” Kenji said, bowing exactly fifteen degrees, “my grandfather learned German from a doctor in Nagasaki. I learned it from books. Please forgive my accent.”

In the autumn of 1913, before the world forgot how to laugh, a lonesome train steamed out of Vienna’s Westbahnhof. On board was Felix Adler, a fifty-year-old musicologist with a walrus mustache and a heart bruised by unplayed sonatas. He carried two things: a leather valise stuffed with scores by Haydn and Schubert, and a letter from the Imperial Academy offering him a year’s post at the University of Tokyo. Austria had grown too small for his grief. Japan, he hoped, would be large enough for silence. The air smelled of cedar and charcoal

Felix, who had spent twenty years teaching students who yawned through Beethoven, nearly wept. “Your accent,” he said, “is the most beautiful thing I have heard in a decade.”